Ben Jones and a Grizzly Bear.- Rocky Heights- Mountain Torrents. -Traces of
M'Lellan.- Volcanic Remains- Mineral Earths.- Peculiar Clay for Pottery.- Dismal Plight
of M'Lellan.- Starvation.- Shocking Proposition of a Desperate Man.- A Broken-Down
Bull.- A Ravenous Meal.-Indian Graves- Hospitable Snakes.-A Forlorn Alliance.
AS the travellers were now in a dangerous neighborhood, where the report of a rifle
might bring the savages upon them, they had to depend upon their old beaver-trap for
subsistence. The little river on which they were encamped gave many "beaver signs,"
and Ben Jones set off at daybreak, along the willowed banks, to find a proper trapping-place. As he was making his way among the thickets, with his trap on his shoulder and
his rifle in his hand, he heard a crushing sound, and turning, beheld a huge grizzly bear
advancing upon him, with terrific growl. The sturdy Kentuckian was not to be
intimidated by man or monster. Leveling his rifle, he pulled the trigger. The bear was
wounded, but not mortally: instead, however, of rushing upon his assailant, as is
generally the case with this kind of bear, he retreated into the bushes. Jones followed
him for some distance, but with suitable caution, and Bruin effected his escape.
As there was every prospect of a detention of some days in this place, and as the
supplies of the beaver-trap were too precarious to be depended upon, it became
absolutely necessary to run some risk of discovery by hunting in the neighborhood. Ben
Jones, therefore, obtained permission to range with his rifle some distance from the
camp, and set off to beat up the river banks, in defiance of bear or Blackfeet.
He returned in great spirits in the course of a few hours, having come upon a gang of
elk about six. miles off, and killed five. This was joyful news, and the party immediately
moved forward to the place where he had left the carcasses. They were obliged to
support Mr. Crooks the whole distance, for he was unable to walk. Here they remained
for two or three days, feasting heartily on elk meat, and drying as much as they would
be able to carry away with them.
By the 5th of October, some simple prescriptions, together with an "Indian sweat," had
so far benefited Mr. Crooks, that he was enabled to move about; they therefore set
forward slowly, dividing his pack and accoutrements among them, and made a creeping
day's progress of eight miles south. Their route for the most part lay through swamps
caused by the industrious labors of the beaver; for this little animal had dammed up
numerous small streams, issuing from the Pilot Knob Mountains, so that the low
grounds on their borders were completely inundated. In the course of their march they
killed a grizzly bear, with fat on its flanks upwards of three inches in thickness. This
was an acceptable addition to their stock of elk meat. The next day Mr. Crooks was
sufficiently recruited in strength to be able to carry his rifle and pistols, and they made a
march of seventeen miles along the borders of the plain.
Their journey daily became more toilsome, and their sufferings more severe, as they
advanced. Keeping up the channel of a river, they traversed the rugged summit of the
Pilot Knob Mountain, covered with snow nine inches deep. For several days they
continued, bending their course as much as possible to the east, over a succession of
rocky heights, deep valleys, and rapid streams. Sometimes their dizzy path lay along
the margin of perpendicular precipices, several hundred feet in height, where a single
false step might precipitate them into the rocky bed of a torrent which roared below. Not
the least part of their weary task was the fording of the numerous windings and
branchings of the mountain rivers, all boisterous in their currents, and icy cold.
Hunger was added to their other sufferings, and soon became the keenest. The small
supply of bear and elk meat which they had been able to carry, in addition to their
previous burdens, served but for a short time. In their anxiety to struggle forward, they
had but little time to hunt, and scarce any game in their path. For three days they had
nothing to eat but a small duck, and a few poor trout. They occasionally saw numbers
of the antelopes, and tried every art to get within shot; but the timid animals were more
than commonly wild, and after tantalizing the hungry hunters for a time, bounded away
beyond all chance of pursuit. At length they were fortunate enough to kill one: it was
extremely meagre, and yielded but a scanty supply; but on this they subsisted for
On the 11th, they encamped on a small stream, near the foot of the Spanish River
Mountain. Here they met with traces of that wayward and solitary being, M'Lellan, who
was still keeping on ahead of them through these lonely mountains. He had encamped
the night before on this stream; they found the embers of the fire by which he had slept,
and the remains of a miserable wolf on which he had supped. It was evident he had
suffered, like themselves, the pangs of hunger, though he had fared better at this
encampment; for they had not a mouthful to eat.
The next day, they rose hungry and alert, and set out with the dawn to climb the
mountain, which was steep and difficult. Traces of volcanic eruptions were to be seen
in various directions. There was a species of clay also to be met with, out of which the
Indians manufactured pots and jars, and dishes. It is very fine and light, of an
agreeable smell, and of a brown color spotted with yellow, and dissolves readily in the
mouth. Vessels manufactured of it are said to impart a pleasant smell and flavor to any
liquids. These mountains abound also with mineral earths, or chalks of various colors;
especially two kinds of ochre, one a pale, the other a bright red, like vermilion; much
used by the Indians, in painting their bodies.
About noon, the travellers reached the "drains" and brooks that formed the head waters
of the river, and later in the day, descended to where the main body, a shallow stream,
about a hundred and sixty yards wide, poured through its mountain valley.
Here the poor famishing wanderers had expected to find buffalo in abundance, and had
fed their hungry hopes during their scrambling toll, with the thoughts of roasted ribs,
juicy humps, and broiled marrow bones. To their great disappointment, the river banks
were deserted - a few old tracks showed where a herd of bulls had some time before
passed along, but not a horn nor hump was to be seen in the sterile landscape. A few
antelopes looked down upon them from the brow of a crag, but flitted away out of sight
at the least approach of the hunter.
In the most starving mood they kept for several miles further along the bank of the river,
seeking for "beaver signs." Finding some, they encamped in the vicinity, and Ben
Jones immediately proceeded to set the trap. They had scarce come to a halt, when
they perceived a large smoke at some distance to the southwest. The sight was hailed
with joy, for they trusted it might rise from some Indian camp, where they could procure
something to eat, and the dread of starvation had now overcome even the terror of the
Blackfeet. Le Clerc, one of the Canadians, was instantly despatched by Mr. Stuart, to
reconnoitre; and the travellers sat up till a late hour, watching and listening for his
return, hoping he might bring them food. Midnight arrived, but Le Clerc did not make his
appearance, and they laid down once more supperless to sleep, comforting themselves
with the hopes that their old beaver trap might furnish them with a breakfast.
At daybreak they hastened with famished eagerness to the trap. They found in it the
forepaw of a beaver, the sight of which tantalized their hunger, and added to their
dejection. They resumed their journey with flagging spirits, but had not gone far when
they perceived Le Clerc approaching at a distance. They hastened to meet him, in
hopes of tidings of good cheer. He had none to give them; but news of that strange
wanderer, M'Lellan. The smoke had risen from his encampment which took fire while he
was at a little distance from it fishing. Le Clerc found him in forlorn condition. His fishing
had been unsuccessful. During twelve days that he had been wandering alone through
these savage mountains, he had found scarce anything to eat. He had been ill,
wayworn, sick at heart, still he had kept forward; but now his strength and his
stubbornness were exhausted. He expressed his satisfaction at hearing that Mr. Stuart
and his party were near, and said he would wait at his camp for their arrival, in hopes
they would give him something to eat, for without food he declared he should not be
able to proceed much further.
When the party reached the place, they found the poor fellow lying on a parcel of
withered grass, wasted to a perfect skeleton, and so feeble that he could scarce raise
his head or speak. The presence of his old comrades seemed to revive him, but they
had no food to give him, for they themselves were almost starving. They urged him to
rise and accompany them, but he shook his head. It was all in vain, he said; there was
no prospect of their getting speedy relief, and without it he should perish by the way; he
might as well, therefore, stay and die where he was. At length, after much persuasion,
they got him upon his legs; his rifle and other effects were shared among them, and he
was cheered and aided forward. In this way they proceeded for seventeen miles, over a
level plain of sand, until seeing a few antelopes in the distance, they encamped on the
margin of a small stream. All now that were capable of the exertion, turned out to hunt
for a meal. Their efforts were fruitless, and after dark they returned to their camp,
famished almost to desperation.
As they were preparing for the third time to lay down to sleep without a mouthful to eat,
Le Clerc, one of the Canadians, gaunt and wild with hunger, approached Mr. Stuart
with his gun in his hand. "It was all in vain," he said, "to attempt to proceed any further
without food. They had a barren plain before them, three or four days' journey in extent,
on which nothing was to be procured. They must all perish before they could get to the
end of it. It was better, therefore, that one should die to save the rest." He proposed,
therefore, that they should cast lots; adding, as an inducement for Mr. Stuart to assent
to the proposition, that he, as leader of the party, should be exempted.
Mr. Stuart shuddered at the horrible proposition, and endeavored to reason with the
man, but his words were unavailing. At length, snatching up his rifle, he threatened to
shoot him on the spot if he persisted. The famished wretch dropped on his knees,
begged pardon in the most abject terms, and promised never again to offend him with
such a suggestion.
Quiet being restored to the forlorn encampment, each one sought repose. Mr. Stuart,
however, was so exhausted by the agitation of the past scene, acting upon his
emaciated frame, that he could scarce crawl to his miserable couch; where,
notwithstanding his fatigues, he passed a sleepless night, revolving upon their dreary
situation, and the desperate prospect before them.
Before daylight the next morning, they were up and on their way; they had nothing to
detain them; no breakfast to prepare, and to linger was to perish. They proceeded,
however, but slowly, for all were faint and weak. Here and there they passed the skulls
and bones of buffaloes, which showed that these animals must have been hunted here
during the past season; the sight of these bones served only to mock their misery. After
travelling about nine miles along the plain, they ascended a range of hills, and had
scarcely gone two miles further, when, to their great joy, they discovered "an old run-down buffalo bull;" the laggard probably of some herd that had been hunted and
harassed through the mountains. They now all stretched themselves out to encompass
and make sure of this solitary animal, for their lives depended upon their success. After
considerable trouble and infinite anxiety, they at length succeeded in killing him. He
was instantly flayed and cut up, and so ravenous was their hunger, that they devoured
some of the flesh raw. The residue they carried to a brook near by, where they
encamped, lit a fire, and began to cook.
Mr. Stuart was fearful that in their famished state they would eat to excess and injure
themselves. He caused a soup to be made of some of the meat, and that each should
take a quantity of it as a prelude to his supper. This may have had a beneficial effect,
for though they sat up the greater part of the night, cooking and cramming, no one
suffered any inconvenience.
The next morning the feasting was resumed, and about midday, feeling somewhat
recruited and refreshed, they set out on their journey with renovated spirits, shaping
their course towards a mountain, the summit of which they saw towering in the east,
and near to which they expected to find the head waters of the Missouri.
As they proceeded, they continued to see the skeletons of buffaloes scattered about
the plain in every direction, which showed that there had been much hunting here by
the Indians in the recent season. Further on they crossed a large Indian trail forming a
deep path, about fifteen days old, which went in a north direction. They concluded it to
have been made by some numerous band of Crows, who had hunted in this country for
the greater part of the summer.
On the following day they forded a stream of considerable magnitude, with banks
clothed with pine trees. Among these they found the traces of a large Indian camp,
which had evidently been the headquarters of a hunting expedition, from the great
quantities of buffalo bones strewed about the neighborhood. The camp had apparently
been abandoned about a month.
In the centre was a singular lodge one hundred and fifty feet in circumference,
supported by the trunks of twenty trees, about twelve inches in diameter and forty-four
feet long. Across these were laid branches of pine and willow trees, so as to yield a
tolerable shade. At the west end, immediately opposite to the door, three bodies lay
interred with their feet towards the east. At the head of each was a branch of red cedar
firmly planted in the ground. At the foot was a large buffalo's skull, painted black.
Savage ornaments were suspended in various parts of the edifice, and a great number
of children's moccasins. From the magnitude of this building, and the time and labor
that must have been expended in erecting it, the bodies which it contained were
probably those of noted warriors and hunters.
The next day, October 17th, they passed two large tributary streams of the Spanish
River. They took their rise in the Wind River Mountains, which ranged along to the
east, stupendously high and rugged, composed of vast masses of black rock, almost
destitute of wood, and covered in many places with snow. This day they saw a few
buffalo bulls, and some antelopes, but could not kill any; and their stock of provisions
began to grow scanty as well as poor.
On the 18th, after crossing a mountain ridge, and traversing a plain, they waded one of
the branches of Spanish River, and on ascending its bank, met with about a hundred
and thirty Snake Indians. They were friendly in their demeanor, and conducted them to
their encampment, which was about three miles distant. It consisted of about forty
wigwams, constructed principally of pine branches. The Snakes, like most of their
nation, were very poor; the marauding Crows, in their late excursion through the
country, had picked this unlucky band to the very bone, carrying off their horses,
several of their squaws, and most of their effects. In spite of their poverty, they were
hospitable in the extreme, and made the hungry strangers welcome to their cabins. A
few trinkets procured from them a supply of buffalo meat, and of leather for moccasins,
of which the party were greatly in need. The most valuable prize obtained from them,
however, was a horse; it was a sorry old animal in truth, but it was the only one that
remained to the poor fellows, after the fell swoop of the Crows; yet this they were
prevailed upon to part with to their guests for a pistol, an axe, a knife, and a few other
They had doleful stories to tell of the Crows, who were encamped on a river at no great
distance to the east, and were in such force that they dared not venture to seek any
satisfaction for their outrages, or to get back a horse or squaw. They endeavored to
excite the indignation of their visitors by accounts of robberies and murders committed
on lonely white hunters and trappers by Crows and Blackfeet. Some of these were
exaggerations of the outrages already mentioned, sustained by some of the scattered
members of Mr. Hunt's expedition; others were in all probability sheer fabrications, to
which the Snakes seem to have been a little prone. Mr. Stuart assured them that the
day was not far distant when the whites would make their power to be felt throughout
that country, and take signal vengeance on the perpetrators of these misdeeds. The
Snakes expressed great joy at the intelligence, and offered their services to aid the
righteous cause, brightening at the thoughts of taking the field with such potent allies,
and doubtless anticipating their turn at stealing horses and abducting squaws. Their
offers, of course, were accepted; the calumet of peace was produced, and the two
forlorn powers smoked eternal friendship between themselves, and vengeance upon
their common spoilers, the Crows.